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Minas Annûn

Fairytale Castle Rental Apartment in the heart of Tuscany/Umbria

Welcome to Minas Annûn, a fairytale castle rental apartment inside the Abbey of Sant'Arcangelo di Magione, a one thousand year old property with views over beautiful Lake Trasimeno to the north, the gorgeous oak-wood-covered mountain slope to the south, and surrounded on all sides by ancient olive groves and manicured, landscaped gardens.

The Abbey retains all of its original historical character on the outside while the apartment of Minas Annûn (the tower you can see in the picture above) has been fully refurbished to modern standards to offer guests the best of all worlds - the opportunity to stay in a centuries-old historic property in perfect comfort; to imagine life as a knight or a monk in medieval times while at the same time taking advantage of the onsite tennis court and swimming pool; being able to stay in and eat at a dining table from the sixteenth century that is rumoured to have once hosted the Borgias, or to drive a short distance to dine at one of many high-class local restaurants; to remain onsite, relax and bask in la dolce vita, or drive to one of multiple beautiful and historical towns that comprise the regions of Tuscany and Umbria.

Minas Annûn truly offers the best of all worlds for visitors looking for a base to vacation and explore one of the most enchanting regions in the world.

INTRODUCTIONS

They say that an Englishman’s home is his castle and in my case that is literally true.

Hi, my name is Tim Wood and I am the owner of Minas Annûn, the apartment at the top of the tower of the Abbey of Sant'Arcangelo di Magione. I live in Austin, TX, USA. My wife and I dreamed of owning a home in Tuscany/Umbria for over a decade as we travelled throughout the region exploring the towns and countryside, growing to love the people, the culture, the climate and the history. We spent a significant amount of time in all of the towns and cities you will find suggested as places to visit on this website looking for an Italian home and eventually we decided that rather than having to choose between any one of these unique and special towns, we would instead find a home within easy travel distance of them all. Hence the Badia di Sant’Arcangelo which has been converted into thirty-two apartments of which you are staying in the most prestigious.

I have named this apartment ‘Minas Annûn’ as a result of my love of the works of Professor J.R.R. Tolkien, the inventor of Middle Earth and the author of ‘The Hobbit’ and ‘The Lord of the Rings’. Minas Annûn in Elvish means ‘The Tower of the Setting Sun’ which I hope you agree could not be more apt for this wonderful property.

I have a very small team working hard to make sure your stay is as enjoyable as possible. Their contact details are provided when guests make a booking. We pride ourselves on our reputation and will do everything possible to make your vacation one to treasure always.

We hope that you enjoy your stay with us.

With all best wishes,

Tim and the Minas Annûn team

http://www.minasannun.com

GALLERY

Arial view of the Badia Di Sant'Arcangelo

Landscaped environs around the Badia

Landscaped environs around the Badia

View of the Badia approaching Sant'Arcangelo from the West

Landscaped environs around the Badia

Six hundred year old olive trees

Picnic area

Landscaped environs around the Badia

Tennis court

Swimming pool

Swimming pool

Grand meeting room

The chapel

Main entrance to the Badia right, door to the chapel left

Entrance to the tower/

Detail of the central courtyard well

Beautiful central courtyard of the Badia

Minas Annûn apartment (centre door)

Stairs inside the tower leading to Minas Annûn

Dining area, sofas and TV, and new remote-working area

Recently converted second bedroom

The dining table that once hosted the Borgias

Main bathroom with bath, shower, working fireplace

Kitchen (brand new cooker, hob, microwave, washing machine, fridge)

Kitchen

A differnt view of the remote-working and comfortable relaxing areas

Stairway from first to second floor

Air conditioning installed throughout

Ensuite half bathroom

Main bedroom

Lake Trasimeno from the battlements

Private sunbathing area on the battlements

Sunset over Lake Trasimeno from inside the apartment

View from the battlements

The bell tower from the battlements

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Recent drone footage

Beautiful Lake Trasimeno

Views from the battlements

HISTORY

MINAS ANNÛN HISTORY

The official name of the complex of which the tower apartment of Minas Annûn is a part is the Abbazia di Sant'Arcangelo di Magione or the Badia Di Sant'Arcangelo. The abbey is a former Benedictine Abbey founded around the year 1000. It is located above the village of Sant'Arcangelo, which is part of the commune of Magione, on the south-eastern shore of Lake Trasimeno in the Italian region of Umbria.

The complex with its wide panoramic view of the lake is located on a hill on an oak-wood-covered mountain slope surrounded by olive groves. The architecture shows traces of numerous changes and conversions made by the respective owners over the centuries. It is still a religious building and retains a strong fortress character.

The façade of the Romanesque church, which is incorporated into the abbey, and the massive foundations with the narrow openings typical of fortresses, are all visible. In the course of time the fortress character was emphasized by adding the tower, battlements and shooting ranges, which can still be seen on the tower today. The building was enlarged in several phases. This can be seen in the former outer walls, which are now enclosed, as well as in openings that point inwards today.

The whole complex forms an irregular rectangle, in the center of which there is a courtyard with a deep drawing well. On its northern side is the church dedicated to St. Michael, with campanile, and in the southeast is the fortress tower with battlements.

The fortified monastery was part of a defensive chain of ramparts on the eastern bank of Lake Trasimeno which consisted of the fortified settlements of San Feliciano, Monte del Lago, Zocco and San Savino. At that time, the village beneath Sant’Arcangelo was called Aiola, whereas the mountain above was and still is called Marzolano.

It is evident how this monastic structure ended up giving its name to the place where it was located along the road between Perugia and Chiusi on the border between the dioceses of the two cities. The property was a cause of dispute between the monastery of St. Peter of Perugia, that of St. Mary of Farneta, and the Perugia bishopric. In the year 1014 the monastery was one of the many properties the Emperor Henry II granted to the Abbey of Farneta in the Diocese of Arezzo. The crypt of the church dates from that period. A year after, however, Pope Pascal II attributed it to the monastery of San Pietro in Perugia. Both attributions were confirmed by succession of Popes, which led to a conflict of interests between the two monasteries of Arezzo and Perugia. In 1206, for instance, Pope Innocent III counts Sant’Arcangelo "with all its properties" among the churches owing allegiance to the bishop of Perugia. In 1238, on the other hand, Pope Gregory IX confirmed the affiliation of the monastery to Santa Maria of Farneta. Every Ascension day, it had to pay a tribute of two measures of oil, ten measures of wheat and twenty measures of wine. This dependency of Farneta ended towards 1420. In 1332 an independent abbot presided over Sant’Arcangelo but ties to Farneta and San Pietro remained close, for which frequent commissions by the abbots of these monasteries to the abbot of Sant’Arcangelo testify.

The date of the construction of the church Sant'Arcangelo is unknown. In 1361 the church was registered in the land register of the municipality of Perugia for the modest value of two "heavy lire" and ten "groschen". This figure, however, increased, as a result of the increase in the estates of Santa Maria di Ancaelle, which fell to Sant'Arcangelo in 1409. The highest value was 1712 "heavy lire". In 1565 it was mentioned that it featured a baptism font and a bell tower. In 1788 the decision was taken to rebuild the old bell tower of the 15th century. The frescoes of the church stem from the same period; a crucifixion with angels and seraphim is still visible today. Earlier, a Saint Girolamo and an Archangel Michael were depicted on the side of the main altar. On another wall of the church, remnants of older frescoes are visible. One of the two side altars - which were initially shaded by canopies - was completely rebuilt in 1817 after lightning damaged it. The apsis was walled in at an unknown date; it shape is recognizable in the outer wall from the outside and from the inside in the apartment above the church. Nowadays, a wooden life-size statue of Saint Anthony the Great stands on the left wall, and a statue of Saint Rita of Cascia on the right wall. The church is still consecrated and at times used for weddings. Once a year, on St Michael’s day, the priest of Sant’Arcangelo holds mass in the church for the local population.

In 1376, Perugia enlarged its chain of ramparts especially on the traditionally vulnerable points on Lake Trasimeno and the lake of Chiusi. The abbey of Sant’Arcangelo was strengthened in the manner of a fortress in a burgundy style and received a consignment of weapons and ammunition.

Towards the end of the fourteenth century the monastery was hardly inhabited. It is unclear whether this is attributable to the unfavorable climate and to malaria. The unfavorable climate was stirred by the large marshes on the banks of the lake, which mosquitoes used as breeding grounds.

Around 1420 Monsignor Benedetto Guidalotti, Bishop of Recenati and founder of the College of the New Sciences in Perugia, was interested in the now vacant structure. He received from Pope Martin V on 19 December 1425 the eternal rule over the monastery and the surrounding lands. A second bull of April 20, 1426, specifies that the abovementioned goods and lands should be remain eternally the Faculty’s property. This is confirmed in 1429 and 1430. In 1488 the papal regulations were confirmed in the land register of Perugia, which lists the monastery building in the list of the College of the New Sciences. The land register records of 1605 and 1786 also confirm the unaltered membership of the property, which remained in the hands of the Faculty until the beginning of the nineteenth century.

During the eighteenth century no one seemed eager to cultivate the land around Sant’Arcangelo, so the Faculty offered it for “eternal settlement”. In the end, a community of settling gypsies reclaimed it through draining the swamps at the bottom of the hill. In 1763 bishop Amadei commented after a visit to the church: "it is situated above a slope with an unhealthy climate". Over time, the system of “eternal settlement” led to litigations and drained the finances of the Faculty to the point that it decided to lease the whole property at first for a period of three, then for six and finally nine years.

The lease contract of 1779 lists a "cellar, oil mill, wheat and oil deposit, and household utensils for wine and oil in the mansions". The cultivation of mulberry trees in the middle of the eighteenth century produced significant profit. Throughout the nineteenth century, the Faculty’s accounts listed expenses for maintenance and repair for the buildings of Sant’Arcangelo. In 1858 it was deemed necessary to "build a kiln in order to produce the tiles necessary for restoration". At that time, the building was used for a diversity of purposes, which entailed a number of structural adaptations. The innermost of the monastery, probably once surrounded by arcades, was transformed into a patio with a deep well, whose inner shape has remained almost unchanged during the centuries.

As from 1901 the Faculty of New Sciences abandoned its educational vocation, following years burdened with troubles. Its properties continued to be managed by an administrative council for a number of years until the nomination of a royal commissioner in 1913. On 31 March 1913, the notary Gianbattista Brizi authenticated the sale by the Faculty of the abbey and its rural properties to Count Grafen Massimiliano Goutry, with the exception of the church, the rectory and a small garden. The receipts tell that the Faculty continued to administrate these remnants.

On 16 April 1921 a couple from Rome, Gastone Cerulli Irelli und Elena Vitali acquired the property - authenticated by a notary - and remained its owners until 1935.

On 9 January 1935 the notary Filippo Biarati certified the sale of the property to Carlo Bona und Valeria Delleani from Turin, who were its last private owners. From them it passed on first to the real estate company ‘Sant’Arcangelo’ of Lorenzo Bona, then successively to the companies ‘La Badia’ and ‘Targa Verde’. In 1986/7 the architect Nicola De Menna bought the property and renovated it completely dividing it into multiple apartments while respecting the stringent conditions applying to historic monuments.

The building is today surrounded by an olive grove with centenary-old trees, a swimming pool and a tennis court.

LOCATION

The pool and tennis court from the battlements

Getting here

We recommend hiring a car for use during your stay. The airport that you flew into is likely some distance away as is the nearest railway station. While the property is within easy walking distance of the nearest town Sant’Arcangelo, a vehicle would give you the opportunity to visit the attractions that we have listed further on on this website.

The address

The address of the property is: L'appartamento in cima alla torre, La Badia di Sant’Arcangelo, Via Gorami, 06063 Magione PG, Italy

The GPS location (in all three common formats) is:

43°04'46.1"N 12°09'53.0"E or 43.079463N, 12.164714E or 43°04.768333’N 12°09.88333’E

Following is a link to a Google Earth map of the location of the castle: Location

Directions

From Florence FLR airport to the apartment - Distance 148 km, journey time 1 hour 45 minutes (traffic and weather conditions permitting)

From Rome FCO airport to the apartment - Distance 209 km, journey time 2 hours 26 minutes (traffic and weather conditions permitting)

From Pisa PSA airport to the apartment - Distance 215 km, journey time 2 hours 30 minutes (traffic and weather conditions permitting)

Full details including photos to aid finding the property are included in the attached Guest Book.

Once you arrive in Sant’Arcangelo, drive down the main street of the town (Via della Sapienza aka SR599) and turn south (away from the Lake) on Via Gorami as indicated below (opposite the war memorial)

Drive for 400 meters and the road bears around to the right

Drive for 200 meters and the road takes a 90 degree turn to the left

Drive for 150 meters and you have reached the gate that leads to the parking area of the property

The parking area is to your right as you pass through the main gates

Access to the property

After you park your car, walk right around the property and you will see two doors. The closest is the public entrance to the church (also accessible from the interior courtyard ) and the second is the main entrance to the interior courtyard.

As you pass through the main wooden gate entrance and then through the metal security gate, turn right in the courtyard and pass through the opening in the far right corner. You have now entered the tower and you need to climb two flights of stairs to the top and the apartment of Minas Annûn. If it is dark there are light switches on the wall on the right hand side at each level of the tower.

When you reach the top of the tower turn right through the archway and Minas Annûn is directly in front of you (signposted by a brass plaque). Watch your head. There is a low beam directly in front of the front door. This has been padded but take care.

Facilities

The apartment is fitted with cooking, clothes washing (the clothes washer is in the kitchen), and ironing facilities (see the storage area under the stairs that lead up to the battlements) which you are free to use.

The apartment has a kitchen, dining/living room, full bathroom, bedroom with twin/single bunkbeds, and a master bedroom with an en-suite half bathroom. The apartment is furnished with original art throughout.

The dining table and chairs once hosted the Borgias.

The main bathroom includes a fireplace, bath, shower, toilet and sink.

You are also welcome to use the common areas within the Abbey including the meeting hall (to your left through the main entrance and which needs to be booked in advance for group events) and the church which is still a functioning consecrated church which the local people use once a year for church services.

Also available for you to use are the pool and tennis court plus of course the wonderful landscaped lawns and other outside areas. We hope you enjoy the beautiful views over Lake Trasimeno, the gorgeous oak-wood-covered mountain slopes, and the ancient olive groves and manicured, landscaped gardens.

The owners of the Abbey apartments like to run the property as a kind of extended family. You will see no booking times for the tennis court for example. It is available on a first-come, first-served basis but if you are using the court and another person asks to join you, please make them welcome, and vice versa. We are all one big happy family with minimal rules and regulations.

Gardens

We have a large amount of garden space for our guests to enjoy. There are benches strategically positioned around the grounds for you to sit, relax and enjoy the views.

Apartment information

Minas Annûn is a home away from home rather than a hotel. Sheets, duvet and pillows will be laundered and changed after every guest departure. We do not offer bed linen and towel washing during your stay as part of your booking although these services can be arranged for an additional cost of €10 per instance.

We are building the Minas Annûn apartment vacation home over time. At present you will find for your enjoyment a flat screen TV, DVD player, MP3 player/alarm clock, CD player and books, and a hairdryer.

During 2019 we installed a full AC system offering both heating and cooling. Internet services are available and satellite TV is planned for 2020. We hope that the facilities currently being offered meet the needs of our guests.

The battlements

One of the main attractions of Minas Annûn is the ability to use the battlements for relaxing, sun-bathing, or for meals and spending time with friends and family. Minas Annûn is the only apartment in the Abbey with this opportunity.

SERVICES

SERVICES & LOCALITY

Sant’Arcangelo is the nearest town and is within easy walking distance of the Abbey.

Local facilities include:

Post Office

Poste Italiane, Ufficio Postale Poste Italiane, Via Pianciani 1, 06063 Magione (PG)

Cultural Center

Pro Loco S. Arcangelo, Via della Sapienza, 19, 06063 Magione (PG) www.prolocosantarcangelo.com

Bank

Credi Umbria Credito Cooperativo, Via Trasimeno, 113, 06061 Panicarola (PG)

Cash machine/ATM

B C C Umbria filiale Sant’Arcangelo, Via della Sapienza, 77, 06063 Sant'Arcangelo (PG)

Petrol/Gas station

IP, Case Sparse Sant'Arcangelo, 06063 Magione (PG)

IP, SS71 km 98.200, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Chemist/pharmacy/farmacia

Farmacia Dott.ssa Claudia Pimpinelli, Via della Sapienza 48-54, 06063 Sant'Arcangelo (PG)

Food shopping

Bakery, Pandolce Sas Di Graziani Lorena E C, Via della Sapienza 105, 06063 Sant'Arcangelo (PG)

Supermarket, Alimentari Menconi Ornella, Via della Sapienza 33, 06063 Sant'Arcangelo (PG)

Restaurants

La Perla Nera Ristorante pizzeria, Via Martiri di Cefalonia 2, 06063 Magione (PG)

Ristorante Polvese, Via Montivalle, 06063 Sant'Arcangelo (PG)

Trattoria di campagna Borgo Cenaioli, Via Cenaioli, 06063 Sant'Arcangelo (PG)

A short drive 3 miles east around the Lake you will find more restaurants:

Hotel ristorante Da Faliero, Voc. Case Sparse 23/c, 06063 Montebuono (PG) www.faliero.it

Faliero Torta d'la Maria, SR599 23, 06063 Magione (PG) www.faliero.it

Ristorante Il Ristoro, Località Montebuono 12, 06063 Magione (PG) www.ristoranteilristoro.com

Ristorante Da Massimo - Specialità Pesce di Mare, Via dei Romani 16, 06063 Magione (PG) www.perugiaonline.com

Il Cainone Pizza Restaurant, Via Valderigo 16, 06063 San Feliciano, Magione (PG) +39 075 847 3026

I Bonci, Lungolago A. Alicata 23, 06063 San Feliciano (PG)

Osteria Rosso di Sera, Via F.lli Papini 81, 06063 San Feliciano (PG) www.osteriarossodisera.net

Ristorante Montalcino, Via Monte Cucco 6, 06063 Magione (PG) www.countryhousegradassi.it

A short drive 9 miles north west around the Lake you will find more supermarkets and restaurants:

Lidl Discount Supermarket, Via Fratelli Rosselli 81, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Famila Supermercato Famila A Castiglione Del Lago, Via Fratelli Rosselli, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Conad Supermarket, Via Roma 214, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Be Bop Gelateria Ice Cream, Viale Umbria 25, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG) www.castiglionedellago.eu

Michele & Co. Bakery, Via A. Novella 2, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Cantina del Trasimeno Winery, Via Roma 236, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Cantina Morami Winery Agriturismo, 06061, Castiglione del Lago (PG) www.morami.it

Cafè Noir, Via Lungolago 26, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Ristorante La Capannina, Via Lungolago 20, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Ristorante L' Acquario, Via Vittorio Emanuele 69, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Ristorante Monna Lisa, Via del Forte 2, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Ristorante la Taverna di Julio, Via A. Vespucci 5, 06061 Castiglione del Lago (PG)

Following is a TripAdvisor link providing reviews of restaurants in the area:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g2339376-Sant_Arcangelo_Magione_Province_of_Perugia_Umbria.html

PLACES TO VISIT

Lucca

Lucca is a city that can be visited in a day. It’s located on a plain at the foot of the Apuan Alps and since it isn't a hilltop village, it is ideal for anyone with mobility issues as well as for anyone wishing to take a break from climbing. It is also very easy to reach by car. Most of the attractions in Lucca today show its ancient history: from the trace of the Roman amphitheater that can be seen in the shape of the Piazza dell'Anfiteatro to the archeological remains under the 12th century church of Saints Giovanni and Reparata (the first city cathedral, located just around the corner from the present-day cathedral of San Martino), to the various towers and villas from the 12th to 16th centuries. Extraordinarily, as the city grew and modernized, the walls that surrounded the old town were maintained which was not the case for many other cities in Tuscany. As the walls lost their military importance, the top of the walls became a pedestrian promenade, today one of Lucca's main attractions. The area around the walls is well taken care of, with green grass and trees everywhere along the walls. They have in essence become a park that surrounds the city and blocks out more modern life. Known as the Ramparts Tour here you can enjoy a bike ride around the entire perimeter, a stroll as you enjoy a gelato or simply a period of rest from sightseeing on one of the many shaded benches that line the main walkway.

Other top attractions include the Piazza of San Michele with its beautiful Church of San Michele in Foro, the Basilica of San Frediano as well as the Clock Tower and Guinigi Tower.

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187898-Activities-Lucca_Province_of_Lucca_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187898-Lucca_Province_of_Lucca_Tuscany.html

Roman amphitheater at Piazza Antiteatro off the Via Fillungo, main entrance by Piazza Scarpellini. The remains of the amphitheater are gone. The houses there are of medieval origin, built where the spectator stands were. The amphitheater hosts concerts.
Duomo di San Martino, Piazza di San Martino. Romanesque cathedral dating to 14th century. Contains the must-see Volto Santo and Ilaria del Carretto's Sarcophagus by Jacopo della Quercia. Includes a sculpture of the crucifixion attributed to an eyewitness, Nicodemus. Some interesting carvings in the marble exterior, including a labyrinth.
Torre Guinigi - this is a tower with trees atop it, a very dramatic sight, with good views of the city. No lift, many stairs.
Torre delle Ore - ancient clock tower with original clock still working; is it possible to go upstairs on this tower too (beautiful view on the city, good perspective of Fillungo street).
San Michele in Foro.
Palazzo Pfanner, Via degli Asili. Preserved rooms formerly inhabited by the Pfanner family, as well as a pleasant garden. Also on display, some 19th century medical equipment.
Piazza Napoleone, Lucca's largest square. Contains the large Palazzo Ducale, now a government building.
Domus Romana, remains of an old Roman home, have been partially excavated, and may be seen at via Cesare Battisi 15 (at via San Giorgio).
Pasticcieria Toddeucci is recommended if you need a snack and Gelateria Veneta if you fancy a gelato.

Lucca is 2 h 24 min (210.7 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35 and A11/E76

Vinci

Vinci is the town most associated with the life of Leonardo da Vinci who was named after the town. Vinci is a tiny town in the middle of endless vineyards and olive groves just like it was in Leonardo's time. Vinci is situated in the hills of Montalbano, a green area divided between the provinces of Pistoia, Prato and Florence. The municipality of Vinci is part of the province of Florence. There are plenty of things to see in Vinci and many of them are related to Leonardo’s life: the house in which he was born, just 3 km from Vinci in the middle of the countryside, the church where he was baptised, and the museum and the library that take his name. Vinci dates back to the early middle ages, when Vinci was under the rule of the Guidi counts. In the town center you’ll find the Guidi castle, also known as the "castle of the ship" because of its elongated shape and the tower shaped like a sailing vessel. It contains the Leonardo museum and bears painted and sculpted coats of arms as well as a ceramic Madonna and Child by Giovanni della Robbia, made in 1523.

The last time we visited they were having an absolutely wonderful medieval fayre that people had travelled from all over the world to visit. There were thousands of people there all in costumes and we arrived just as they were parading through the town. The costumes included both historical as was as fantasy themes - knights, warriors, monks and magicians and even included self-flagellants who spent the entire evening (mock) whipping themselves.

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187903-Activities-Vinci_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187903-Vinci_Tuscany.html

The Museo Leonardiano inside Guidi castle, which displays some of the inventions drawn in Leonardo’s notebooks. Here you’ll find ingenious machines and models created by Leonardo as a technologist and engineer.
The church of Santa Croce, built in the 13th century and later reworked in neo-Renaissance style. It contains the baptismal font where it is said Leonardo da Vinci was baptised. The interior is simple. On the walls, you’ll find paintings by Leonardo da Vinci and other artists from the area.
A wooden representation of the Vitruvian Man, a drawing by Leonardo in which he represented a man with the ideal proportions. The statue - called “L’Uomo di Vinci” - was made by Mario Ceroli and donated to the town by the artist in 1987. The wooden statue is situated in a terrace from which you can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding hills.
Piazza dei Guidi is a square designed by the artist Mimmo Paladino, who was inspired both by Leonardo as a scientist as well as an artist. You’ll find drawings, statues, works of art, and more.
The sanctuary of Santissima Annunziata is located in the heart of Vinci, next to the castle of the Guidi counts. It was built at the beginning of the 17th century.
The Casa Natale di Leonardo (the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci) is situated 3 km outside Vinci, between Anchiano and Faltognano. It is a farmhouse immersed in greenery with some reproductions of Leonardo da Vinci’s drawings and there is also a life-sized hologram of Leonardo, who narrates the events of his life and work.

Vinci is 2 h 11 min (177.0 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35

Pisa

While the Leaning Tower has made Pisa famous all over the world, the city offers many other interesting things to see and do. When you first arrive at the beautiful Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles) your sight will be captivated by the magnificent Tower. Don’t just admire it from below - the climb up the tower is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. You will enjoy both the incredible corkscrew climb as well as the amazing views from the top (you can buy tickets in advance as the number of entries are limited every half hour). Once you have admired the Tower from all angles (including the classic picture in which you pretend to support it to keep as a memento), continue your visit to the other monuments in the Piazza: the Cathedral, the Baptistery, and along the perimeter of the square there is also the Cemetery, the Cathedral Museum and the Museum of the Synopses. Enjoy a leisurely walk along the Arno river and on your way, pass by Clock Palace to enter into Piazza dei Cavalieri, which was once the heart of power in the city and later the headquarters of the Knights of St. Stephen. In the Palazzo della Carovana overlooking the square, the prestigious Scuola Normale of Pisa has its base.

Obviously the main reason for visiting was the amazing Leaning Tower (which actually leans far more than I was expecting) but actually the tower is part of a complex that is just a totally amazing site. The Tower of Pisa is more accurately referred to simply as the bell tower, or campanile. The Pisa tower is one of four buildings that make up the cathedral complex. All four are marvelous buildings to explore. And the whole site is beautiful as all four buildings are made from the same white marble. If you want to climb the Tower we recommend that you arrive early in the morning, get a timeslot to climb the tower, go and do something else for a while, and then return to the Tower for the climb to the top.

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187899-Activities-Pisa_Province_of_Pisa_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187899-Pisa_Province_of_Pisa_Tuscany.html

The Piazza dei Miracoli or Field of Miracles is to the north of central Pisa. It's an UNESCO World Heritage site and contains the city's most famous sights.
Torre Pendente (Leaning Tower). The structure was originally conceived as the cathedral's bell tower. Construction began in 1173 and the tower started leaning soon afterwards due to subsidence of the ground underneath its base. A project to keep the tower from leaning more and tipping over finally reached a successful conclusion in 2001, and the tower is again open to those wishing to climb it. Climbing the tower requires a reservation-based ticket. Tickets can be bought for the tower on the day, for a specific entry time. This could be 45 minutes to 3 hours after the purchase time, but there is a lot to see while you wait. It is better if you buy tickets online for €17 well in advance. Warning, the tickets are non-exchangeable, effectively non-refundable. Make the effort to climb, though, and you'll be rewarded by the view.
Duomo di Pisa (Cathedral of Pisa). The splendid cathedral, contains artwork by Giambologna, Della Robbia, and other major artists. Fine Romanesque style with double aisles and a cupola, a huge apse mosaic partly by Cimabue, and a fine pulpit by Giovanni Pisano in late Gothic/early Renaissance style. Free timed ticket available from the ticket office.
Battistero (Baptistry). Large round Romanesque dome with many sculptured decorations and a fine view up top; climb this if you want a great view with the Leaning Tower visible in your photos. Arabic-style pavement, pulpit by Nicola Pisano (father of Giovanni), and fine octagonal font. At regular intervals, the ticket-checker-guard at the entrance comes into the baptistery and gives an audio-treat of echo-effect. The guard shouts out few sounds which when echoed sound like pure beautiful music. You can also cast your inhibitions to the wind, stand by the wall, and sing long notes that turn into chords by yourself, as the echoes go round and round the dome of the building.
Campo Santo Monumentale (Monumental Cemetery). A huge cemetery building with lots of interesting art, including a collection of ancient Roman sarcophagi and splendid medieval frescoes by the "Master of the Triumph of Death".
Museo del Opera del Duomo has sculptures and paintings formerly preserved in the Cathedral and the cemetery. Some of the more unusual are bronze griffins from Syria captured by the Crusaders. You can also capture nice photos from the Tower and the Duomo from its balcony.
Museo delle Sinopie Skipped over by many visitors, this museum is a treat for art lovers. After WWII many of the surviving murals and pieces of murals from Pisa's Campo Santo were detached from the walls to try to preserve them. It was unexpectedly discovered that the artist sketches underneath survived. These were moved to this museum.
Eat Cecina, a kind of very thin gluten-free bread made with chickpea flour, water, oil, salt and black pepper. You can eat the cecina alone or in a schiacciatina, a flat bread.

If you decide to stay overnight in Pisa we recommend Hotel Novecento which is in a wonderful location. We stayed at the Novocento in Pisa on the last day of a 10 day tour of Tuscany primarily as we were flying out the next day from Pisa but also for its proximity to the Tower complex. The positives were the location (5 mins walk to the Tower and Duomo), clean room, AC, cost, feeling of safety inside the hotel, and the super-helpful female member of staff who could not do enough for us. The negatives were having to park the hire car on the street (if you do this, remember to pay for each hour through the night to the time you intend to leave the next day or you’ll get a ticket), and the overly-officious male member of staff (who would not even let us take our key with us when we left to tour the sights). We did not sample the buffet breakfast but it looked to be mainly packet goods. The garden looked nice for chilling out too (we had a view of it from the room). All things considered this was a great choice for a hotel for one night. It’s not luxurious but it is completely adequate if you just need somewhere to stay when visiting the sites and then flying out the next day.

Pisa is 2 h 36 min (216.7 km) from Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35 and SGC Firenze - Pisa - Livorno

Florence

Tuscany is known for its fabulous landscapes, amazing artwork and architecture and its incredible charm. Yet there is only one place in Tuscany where all three of these elements combine effortlessly together and give life to a magical, romantic and absolutely one of a kind city: Florence.

Famous as the center of the Renaissance and for the immense political and economic power it wielded during the rule of the Medici Dynasty, Florence offered the world a stage for great artistic masters such as Michelangelo, Brunelleschi, Leonardo da Vinci and Galileo. However, Florence has its roots long before, when it rose and fell several times in the hands of the Romans, the Lombardic tribes and others. Each successive age brought new architecture, art and creativity which are still evident in the streets, the many museums, churches, monuments and even the everyday life of this marvelous city.

Florence embodies the intellectual, artistic and cultural center of Tuscany. A visit to Tuscany could not be complete without a walk around Florence, photos from Piazzale Michelangelo, a stop at Ponte Vecchio and a stroll along the Arno River. A trip to Florence must include a visit to the Uffizi Museum, the Accademia and the imposing Palazzo della Signoria. To truly taste the flavor of Florence, one needs to enjoy a gelato in Piazza del Duomo, inhale the scent of leather at the markets and eat a bistecca Fiorentina in the shade of Palazzo Pitti.

Note that the first Sunday of the Month all state museums, meaning all the main museums, have free entrance. It is best to book ahead at the ticket counters as it can be busy.

Galleria degli Uffizi, Piazzale degli Uffizi, Tue-Sun 8:15AM-6:50PM. One of the world's most famous fine art museums with collections of Renaissance paintings and sculptures from classical antiquity. Included is The Birth of Venus and Primavera by Sandro Boticelli, as well as Titian's Venus of Urbino. There are often long lines and several hours' wait is common, starting even before the doors open. You can call +39 055 294883 to make a reservation in advance and walk right in. The phone operator will give you an extension number which you quote at Gate 3 to pay (cash only) and get the tickets. Alternatively, there is a ticket office at the museum which will normally sell these same reservation tickets for almost immediate entry. Online booking is available but it costs more, has a 24 hour waiting period, your specified time may change and you need to print an email. The restaurant/caffè has a large balcony overlooking the main piazza with good views of the Palazzo Vecchio. It is a great place to take a break for art lovers making a non-rushed visit to this fantastic collection. Admission €20.00 (as of May 2018), phone booking €4 extra; Online booking [http://www.b-ticket.com/b-ticket/uffizi/default.aspx] €4 extra. Booking in person is 4€ extra.

Bargello (Officially The National Museu of Bargello), Via de Proconsolo 4, 8:15AM-1:30PM, generally Tu-Su, but closed the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month and May 1st, open the 2nd and 4th Monday. This museum houses one of the best examples of Renaissance and Mannerist sculpture. The works of many great Renaissance sculptors are on display here, including Michelangelo, Donatello, Ammannati, Bandinelli, Andrea and Jacopo Sansovino, Desiderio da Settignano, Giambologna, and Antonio Rossellino. The museum is located near Piazza della Signoria and can be seen in a few hours. Admission is €11.50.

Accademia Gallery, Via Ricasoli 58-60, Tu-Su 8:15AM-6:50PM. Highlights are Michelangelo's David and the unfinished Slaves. The David was recently cleaned in a controversial project. No flash photography is allowed inside. Wait times can be under one hour in the off-season. It is possible to reserve at the academia in advance and save yourself the long line. If you only interested in see David and the Rape of the Sabines, you can see similar replicas in Palazzo Vecchio where you can also take pictures. Please note that while restoring or repairing art the gallery often showcases the replicas (you can tell because e.g. the toenail is intact on the David replica). €12.50 (advance booking: €16.50).

Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (Opera Duomo Museum), Piazza de Duomo 9 (Directly behind the dome end of the cathedral). Reservations +39 055 230 2885. The Cathedral Museum, with artworks formerly in the Duomo and surrounding religious buildings, including sculptures by Donatello, another version of the Pietà (different from that one of Saint Peter's Basilica, in The Vatican, Rome) by Michelangelo, and the losing entries in the famous contest held in 1401 to design the doors of the Baptistery. Models and drawings of the Cathedral. Included in the entrance ticket with the Duomo, Campanile and Baptistery, €18.

Institute and Museum of the History of Science,. This museum shows the evolution of the instruments used in various scientific fields such as mathematics, physics, biology, chemistry, astronomy. The room of Galileo Galilei shows some of his original instruments as well as models from his drawings. The room of Spheres and Globes houses an excellent cartographic collection. In a rather macabre twist the museum also has the middle finger of Galileo's right hand on display.

In the old town center:

Santa Maria del Fiore, also known as the Duomo di Firenze is the city's beautiful cathedral, the symbol of the city. Brunelleschi's huge dome was an engineering feat of the Renaissance. A statue of Brunelleschi is sited in the piazza, with his figure looking upwards towards his dome. It is possible to climb the Dome (entrance on the side of the church), which has 464 steps curving at the top of the dome. It usually has a long lineup. Recently the city has switched to a combination ticket for the Dome, Campanile, Opera del Duomo museum, Baptistery and archaeological excavation under the cathedral, which costs €15 and allows a visit to each of the sights. The cathedral itself is free to enter.

Giotto's Tower- adjacent to the Duomo, you can climb the tower for a magnificent 360-degree view of the Duomo, Florence, and the surrounding area The 414 step climb is included in the entrance ticket (see Duomo).

Baptistery famous for bronze doors by Andrea Pisano (14th century) and Lorenzo Ghiberti (15th century) and a beautiful interior the vault of which is decorated with 13th century mosaics (the only medieval set of mosaics in the city. Included in entrance ticket (see Duomo).

Palazzo Vecchio - old city palace/city hall, adorned with fine art. The replica of Michelangelo's "David" is placed outside the main door in the original location of the statue, which is a symbol of the Comune of Florence. The site displays an important collection of Renaissance sculptures and paintings, including the Putto, by Verrochio, and the series of murals by Giorgio Vasari at the Salone dei Cinquecento (Hall of the Five Hundreds) - the hall which used to display the now lost Renaissance masterpiece, that is, the so-called Battaglia di Anghiari, by Leonardo da Vinci.

Mercato del Porcellino. On your way to the Ponte Vecchio, you will encounter to your right, a market (Loggia del Mercato Nuovo) which hosts this peculiar boar made of bronze. Legend has it that your wish will be granted (or you'll one day return to Firenze, or receive fortune and good luck, amongst others) if you rub its polished snout while placing a coin in its mouth which must slide and fall into the underlying grating. Your best chance for a photo will be at night when the market closes and the vendors have completely cleared the market area.

Ponte Vecchio - the oldest and most famous bridge over the Arno, is the only Florentine bridge to survive WW2 (the rest have been destroyed by the retreating Axis forces). The Ponte Vecchio (literally "old bridge") is lined with shops, traditionally mostly jewelers since the days of the Medici. The Vasari Corridor (occasionally open to visitors although tickets are strictly limited) was Vasari's elevated walkway crosses the Arno over the Ponte Vecchio, connecting the Uffizi to the old Medici palace.

Santa Croce church contains the monumental tombs of Galileo, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Dante, and many other notables in addition to artistic decorations. There is also great artwork in the church. And when you're done seeing that, a separate charge will gain you admission to the Museo dell'Opera di Santa Croce, where you can see a flood-damaged but still beautiful Crucifix by Cimabue (Giotto's teacher), which has become both the symbol of the flooding of Firenze in 1966 and of its recovery from that disaster. The Pazzi Chapel, a perfectly symmetrical example of sublime neo-Classic Renaissance architecture is also worth visiting.

Santa Maria Novella, near the train station, is a beautiful church and contains great artwork, including a recently restored Trinity by Masaccio. Also, the Chiostro Verde, to your left when facing the front entrance of the church, contains frescoes by Paolo Uccello which are quite unusual in style and well worth seeing, if the separate entrance is open. Off of the church's cloister is the wonderful Spanish Chapel which is covered in early Renaissance frescoes.

San Lorenzo - the facade of this church was never completed, giving it a striking, rustic appearance. Inside the church is pure Renaissance neo-classical splendor. If you go around the back of the church, there is a separate entrance to the Medici chapels. Be sure to check out the stunning burial chapel of the princes and the sacristy down the corridor. The small sacristy is blessed with the presence of nine Michelangelo sculptures.

San Marco Convent (1436) houses frescoes by Fra Angelico and his workshop. Fra Angelico painted a series of frescoes for the cells in which the Dominican monks lived. You have to ring the doorbell and request access from one of the nuns.

Piazza Signoria: Home to the “Fake David”, Piazza Signoria is definitely a sight to see. Shops and cafes surround the plaza, but what makes Piazza Signoria special is the abundance of statues within the plaza. The statues represent antique renaissance art including a copy of Michaelangelo’s David. In this square you can also visit the Florence Town Hall, also known as, Palazzo Vecchio. This Romanesque Fortress is one of most significant public places in Italy. In front of the Palazzo Vecchio is a plaque marking the site of the execution of Fra Girolamo Savonarola, who ruled Florence with a theological iron fist until his excommunication and condemnation by the Vatican.

On the south bank of the Arno:

Pitti Palace, Piazza de' Pitti 1. Across the bridge on the quieter south bank of the Arno, the former Medici family palace contains galleries of their art and treasures. The Boboli gardens behind the palazzo offer wonderful walks and excellent views of the city and the countryside south of the city. The Gardens are elaborately landscaped and with many interesting sculptures, behind the Pitti Palace. Wonderful city views. Don't miss the Bardini gardens. Entrance to that is included in the combination ticket price for the Boboli, and it's a short walk from the Boboli Gardens. There are great views of the Duomo from the Bardini gardens. A single adult ticket to the gardens costs €13 (more on this below).

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187895-Activities-Florence_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187895-Florence_Tuscany.html

Florence is 1 hr 48 min (133.0 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35

If you decide to spend the night in Florence here are our tips for an itinerary and some thoughts on hotel options.

We suggest avoiding the Gallery Hotel Art. While it has a perfect location, it’s not really worth the inflated prices ($50 for breakfast?) Rooms were very nice. Staff were less than adequate on one occasion so-say making a booking for us at a local restaurant only for us to arrive and find out the restaurant was full. The restaurant made it very clear that this was the hotel staff's fault, which we later found to be true. Service at the outside bar was awful.

On our first trip the hotel we chose was the Hotel Degli Orafi which was the hotel used in the movie ‘Room with a View’. We chose this hotel because of its superb location next to the river, its historical structure, good reviews and two minute walk to the Ponte Vecchio. Recently Florence has made the area around the historic center a pedestrian area which is a wonderful idea. The problem is that we were driving in a hire car with a SatNav that had not been updated to reflect the new driving rules. While you’re allowed to drive through the pedestrian area to get to the hotel you’re staying at, the SatNav will not help you because of the new one-way road system etc. The staff at the hotel know this and yet the guy on reception was absolutely useless. We were able to get within a quarter of a mile of the hotel but no further. We called repeatedly via cellphone to ask him to help direct us the final five minutes to the hotel. It eventually took almost two hours in rush-hour traffic to get to the hotel meaning we were unable to do the things we’d planned to do in Florence that afternoon. This completely ruined the start of our stay in this beautiful city. When I explained to him that it took nearly two hours to get to the hotel from the outskirts because of his unwillingness to help he just shrugged and said that that happens a lot before he just wandered off. Then we found that while we had booked a room in the main hotel overlooking the river, we were placed in a room in an adjacent building with no view, overlooking a building site. The staff claimed this was a ‘free upgrade’! Once again though we weren’t going to let this unfortunate experience spoil our first evening together in Florence.

We visited Piazzale Michelangelo to see the replica of Michelangelo’s David and take photos overlooking the city with the sun setting behind the Ponte Vecchio. We also wandered around the Via di Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova - the two main shopping streets and the Mercado Neuvo and Piazza della Republica. Florence truly is a marvel. Rome remains our favourite Italian city to date I think because the history goes back well over 2000 years whereas Florence’s rise to prominence began during the renaissance so there’s comparatively less ‘history’ to see. It more than makes up for than in world class architecture and museums though as we would find out the next day.

We started our first full day in Florence in typically Italian fashion with expresso at Caffe Rivoire off Via de’ Calzaiuoli accompanied by the world’s most expensive biscotti biscuit. During the morning we visited Piazza della Signoria where various monumental statues have been erected, the Mercado Neuvo where we touched the nose of the bronze boar who guards the entrance to ensure that we would return to Florence, and then the Barghello museum to see many and assorted ancient statues including Bacchus. After lunch at Caffe Castelvecchi we visited Galleria dell’Accademia to see Michaelangelo’s David among other items of interest and then the Basilica de Santa Croce to see the tombs of Machiavelli, Michelangelo, Galileo, and Dante among others. After this extensive and tiring museum day we found the Bar Vivoli Gelateria for what is officially documented as the best ice cream in the entire world. And it was good. We still had one final museum to visit though and we ended our hectic day in Florence at the Uffizi museum after which we decided we needed sustenance and so had dinner and then returned to the hotel to listen from the hotel rooftop to the live musical recital in the Piazza della Signoria just below. This was a very busy day but really, really rewarding. Despite what you might read in tourist guides it is possible to do all these main Florence highlights in a day so long as you order everything according to their opening times to maximize your visiting times. It’s all in the planning!

On our second full day in Florence we climbed the Duomo to the very top for the stunning views over the Baptistry, Camponile and the rest of the city. As we climbed to the top (which is via steps built into the space between the inner and outer walls of the dome that forms the roof of the cathedral) we got close up views of the paintings on the underside of the cathedral dome (the scenes of heaven, hell, damnation and souls in torment which are visible from the floor beneath). Each figure is huge and the scenes were intended originally to act as a deterrent to anyone thinking of committing an act that would cause them to be sent to hell upon their death. The scenes of the tormented souls being cast into hell, of people being impaled on fiery torches, of hydra and Satan himself are bad enough from two hundred feet below us on the cathedral floor - they’re even more disturbing when you’re ten feet away and the figures are fourteen feet tall. The view from the top of the cathedral dome was stunning and as it was a beautiful day we stayed up there about twenty minutes taking photos, admiring the view, and wondering at the ingenuity of people to have built this structure in the 15th and 16th centuries.

We then crossed the Ponte Vecchio and visited the Palazzo Pitti (including the Galleria Palatina and Apartamenti Real). After the tour of the Palace we needed a break so headed to the Boboli Gardens but saved the tour until later. First, we headed up the left hand side and exited the gardens through a chain link fence past the ticket booth (remembering to show the man our tickets and explaining we’ll be coming back) and headed past the Forte Belvedere and down what looked like a country lane. After 100 yards on was the entrance to another garden (the Boboli Garden ticket got us in here) where we found the Bevedere coffee house which overlooks the river Arno and the Duomo. As we sat and enjoyed the view over lunch we realized that this was the exact spot that Dr. Hannibal Lecter sat when memorizing the view so he could paint in from memory in the “Silence of the Lambs”. Cool, eh?

After lunch we retraced our steps, enjoyed the gardens, including excellent views and took a photo of Cosimo the Great’s favourite dwarf astride a tortoise before leaving. We finished the day with a special event. Vasari’s Corridor which was built by the Medici family to connect the Palazzo Pitti to the Uffizi so they could walk between their two residences without having to come into contact with the mob, is an elevated one kilometer corridor that has only recently been reopened to the public on a limited admissions basis. Unique views of Florence and the River Arno.

San Gimignano

San Gimignano is a small walled village about halfway between Florence and Siena and is most famous for its fascinating medieval architecture and towers that rise above of all the other buildings offering an impressive view of the city from the surrounding valley. At the height of its glory, San Gimignano's patrician families had built around 72 tower-houses as symbols of their wealth and power. Although only 14 have survived, San Gimignano still retains its feudal atmosphere and appearance. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990, San Gimignano offers visitors the chance to step back in time while enjoying its local products including saffron and its white wine, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

When in San Gimignano we recommend visiting Palazzo Communale Museo Civico, the entrance fee to which includes climbing Torre Grossa for spectacular views over the town. Also we recommend visiting the Collegia church, Piazza del Duomo to view the amazing ceiling and frescoes, the Museo della tortura/Torre del Diavolo, the torture museum, which houses an incredible collection of actual and re-created devices and just left me dumbstruck at why people would do such things to each other. San Gimignano contains the “Best Gelateria in the World” and is truly worth visiting.

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g187901-Activities-San_Gimignano_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187901-San_Gimignano_Tuscany.html

Piazza del Duomo the town church's square, is surrounded by thousand-year-old towers.

SanGimignano1300: The visit to the museum is an ideal opportunity to learn about the architectural, social, and historical aspects of the middle Ages in Tuscany. Located in the heart of the city itself, the museum offers a massive reconstruction of the city of San Gimignano dated between the 13th and 14th Century. Open every day. Free entrance. Audio guides and tour guide available. Via Berignano n. 23.

The Collegiata, the nearest to a duomo (cathedral) is beautiful and contains a splendid series of frescoes on Old and New Testament subjects. €3.50, €5.50 combo ticket includes Religious Art Museum. Open Monday to Friday 9:30-7:30, Saturday 9:30-5:00, Sunday 12:30-5:30.

The Pinacoteca Civica (civic painting gallery/museum) in the Palazzo Pubblico is small but has beautiful art inside. €5, price includes Torre Grossa, €2 audio guides, open daily March to October 9:30-7:00, November to February 10:00 to 5:00

Torre Grossa, is the tallest tower in the city at 200 feet. €5, price includes Pinacoteca Civica, same hours as the museum.

The town's 14 Towers are all that remain of the original 72, which were owned by the rich who liked to stay safe there when the town was under attack. When Florence took control of San Gimignano most of them were torn down.

Porta San Giovanni is a gate at the southern end of the town's 13th century walls.

The church of Sant'Agostino in the northeastern part of the city contains a set of great frescoes on the life of St. Augustine by Benozzo Gozzoli Friendly, English-speaking friars tell you about the church. English mass at Sunday at 11:00, open daily 7:00-12:00 & 15:00-19:00, free, but €.50 inserted into a coin box will light up a painting.

The panorama of the countryside from the Rocca in the southwestern part of the city.
The Piazza della Cisterna, a beautiful piazza with an old stone well (no longer used) in the middle. This is where a Thursday market gathers.

San Gimignano is 1 hr 57 min (136.6 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Siena-Bettolle

Volterra

Volterra is an Etruscan and latterly Roman town where we recommend visiting the Porta all’Arco, the Theatro Romano, and then Spartaco Montagnani, via porta all’Arco 6 where there is a great hand-made jewellery shop. While looking for a place to have lunch we happened upon the Quo Vadis traditional Irish pub with draft Guinness. Honestly, you can’t make this stuff up.

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g194951-Activities-Volterra_Province_of_Pisa_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g194951-Volterra_Province_of_Pisa_Tuscany.html

Porta all'Arco - the town's entrance gate built of massive volcanic stones in the 4th century B.C. It's part of the town walls that were 4 miles around, twice as big as it is now.

Duomo - great pulpit and altar. Notice how the entrance is through the baptistery, you couldn't enter until you were baptized (also the reason many duomo’s have a separate baptistery outside of the Cathedral). Free & open daily 8:00-12:30 & 3:00-5:00.

Sacred Art Museum - a small 3-room museum of church art. €8 combo ticket includes Etruscan Museum & Pinacoteca. Open daily 9:00-1:00 & 3:00-6:00, morning only in winter, well explained in English, next to Duomo.

Etruscan Museum - one of the best places in Europe for Etruscan art, it is filled top to bottom, though there are few English explanations. €8 combo ticket with Sacred Art & Pinacoteca Museums, open daily 9:00-7:00, November to March it closes at 1:45. €3 audio guides, on Via Minzoni. Telephone: 0588-86-347.

Pinacoteca - this is a 14th century palace filled with great paintings, the highlights are the Annunciation & the Deposition of the Cross. €8 combo ticket includes Sacred Art & Etruscan Museums, open daily April to October 9:00-7:00, November to March closes at 1:45, on Via dei Sarti. Telephone: 0588-87580.

Roman Theater - built in 10 B.C. and has great acoustics, plus a great view. €2, but the theater can be viewed for free from Via Lungo de Mere. Open April to October daily 10:30-5:30, November to March it closes at 4:00.

Palazzo dei Priori - Volterra's city hall is probably the oldest in Tuscany, at nearly 800 years, and inspired the design for the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. The lavishly painted city council chambers are open to the public when there's no meetings. Open daily April to October 10:30-5:30, November to March on Saturday & Sunday only, 10:00-5:00.

Via Matteotti is the main street of the town, named by a socialist leader killed by the fascists. It's lined with wonderfully decorated palaces & houses.

Alabaster Workshop - the Alab'Arte is a great place to see the beautiful stone displayed. A showroom is across the street from the Etruscan Museum at Via Don Minzoni, with the workshop at Via Orti Sant'Agostino. Both open Monday to Saturday 9:00-1:00 & 3:00-7:00, closed Sunday.

Medici Fortress - this unusual fortress is actually a prison for mob figures from Sicily. The park nearby was the Acropolis of Volterra for 3000 years until Florence burned it down & turned it into a park.
Le Balze - a 3km walk past the residential area of Volterra downhill. You can see the dramatic and fragile cliff that Volterra is built upon.

Volterra is 2 hr 8 min (141.3 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Siena-Bettolle

Monteriggioni

Monteriggioni is a tiny, intact medieval hill town still completely enclosed with walls and towers. Unbelievably peaceful and another highlight of any trip being just a few minutes’ drive off the main highway.

Things to do

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g227886-Activities-Monteriggioni_Tuscany.html

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g227886-Monteriggioni_Tuscany.html

Monteriggioni is 1 hr 40 min (104.4 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Siena-Bettolle

Siena

Siena is many people’s choice for Italy's loveliest medieval city, and a trip worth making even if you are in Tuscany for just a few days. Siena's heart is its central piazza known as Il Campo, known worldwide for the famous Palio run here, a horse race run around the piazza two times every summer. Movie audiences worldwide can see Siena and the Palio in the James Bond movie ‘Quantum of Solace’.

Siena is said to have been founded by Senius, son of Remus, one of the two legendary founders of Rome thus Siena's emblem is the she-wolf who suckled Remus and Romulus - you'll find many statues throughout the city. The city sits over three hills with its heart the huge Piazza del Campo, where the Roman forum used to be. Rebuilt during the rule of the Council of Nine, a quasi-democratic group from 1287 to 1355, the nine sections of the fan-like brick pavement of the piazza represent the council and symbolizes the Madonna's cloak which shelters Siena.

The Campo is dominated by the red Palazzo Pubblico and its tower, Torre del Mangia. Along with the Duomo of Siena, the Palazzo Pubblico was also built during the same period of rule by the Council of Nine. The civic palace, built between 1297 and 1310, still houses the city's municipal offices much like Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Its internal courtyard has entrances to the Torre del Mangia and to the Civic Museum. A climb up the over 500 steps will reward you with a wonderful view of Siena and its surroundings. The Museum, on the other hand, offers some of the greatest of Sienese paintings. The Sala del Concistoro houses one of Domenico Beccafumi's best works, ceiling frescoes of allegories on the virtues of Siena's medieval government. But it is the Sala del Mappamondo and the Sale della Pace that hold the palaces's highlights: Simone Martini's huge Maestà and Equestrian Portrait of Guidoriccio da Fogliano and Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Allegories of Good and Bad Government, once considered the most important cycle of secular paintings of the Middle Ages.

We’ve never been to an actual Palio but were lucky enough to attend the rehearsal the night before a race on one visit to Siena. The Palio is the bareback horse race around the main plaza in Siena. It occurs twice a year and the entire city comes to a halt as the different sections of the city decorate their houses and hang flags identifying the horse they want to win. Shenanigans abound. It is not uncommon for jockeys to be kidnapped the night before the race, for jockeys or horses to be drugged, and other crazy stuff. Interestingly the whips that the jockeys use, which can be used to intimidate or injure other jockeys during the race - this is perfectly acceptable - are all identical, being made from one authorized material only - a three foot long dried bulls penis!. We had a brilliant day in Sienna. We drove to the city center, visited the Palazzo Publico to see Lorenzetti’s fresco – the allegory of good and bad government, and then in the Piazza del Campo we climbed the Torre del Mangia tower and took some great pictures of the city and of the preparations for the Palio before going to the Cathedral to visit the Duomo, the Cripta and the Battistero. During late afternoon we ate some Panforte cake while watching the Palio practice from the grandstands set up in the main square. It was an amazing spectacle and a memory I will treasure always.

Things to do

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The Piazza del Campo, the unique shell shaped piazza at the center of the city, and twice a year the racetrack for the Palio.

The Palazzo Pubblico, Siena's City Hall for almost 800 years, contains (amongst many other things) the famous frescos on good and bad government by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, frescoes by Simone Martini and Duccio, and access to the Torre del Mangia, from whose top you can view a beautiful panorama of the Sienese countryside.

The Duomo, Siena's magnificent black and white Italian Romanesque cathedral including the Libreria Piccolomini, Baptistery (separate entrance and charge), and an attached Museo dell'Opera del Duomo (separate entrance and charge) which includes the famous Maestà by Duccio. Ornate doesn’t being to describe this incredible structure. Built from alternating black and white marble it resembles nothing less than a two hundred foot tall everton mint (remember those?)

The Pinacoteca, full of Sienese painting from the city's medieval heyday.

The Piccolomini Palace built in 1459 by the well-known architect Bernardo Rossellino, disciple of Leon Battista Alberti. The Piccolomini Palace is one of the most popular sites on the Piazza del Campo. The Florentine style palace is home to the official archives of Siena.

Siena is 1 hr 21 min (89.8 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Siena-Bettolle

Montalcino

Montalcino is of course most famous as the home of the world-renowned Brunello de Montalcino wine which we sampled at the Enoteca la fortezzia di Montalcino prior to touring the Rocca Castle and Fortress and the Abbazia di san Calgano.

Montalcino is home to one of the rare pentangle fortresses, which, in all the wars between Florence and Siena, was never taken.

There is also an exquisite Museum, with an extremely beautiful and lifelike Madonna that has become one of the city's symbols, carved in the 15th century by an anonymous artist. It is in part of an original convent, with the traditional central courtyard and orange trees. Concerts and the first tasting of the year's Brunello are held here, as well as lectures and other events.

It is well worth the time to see the four museums of the Sagre, the traditional Archery contest that is held twice a year in Medieval-Early Renaissance dress. The four "Quartieri" compete with all their heart, soul and voice in a challenging contest with small cutouts of a wild boar, at 25, 30, 35 and one of the team's choice up to 45 meters away, often with a stiff wind blowing, at the back of the Fortezza. The concentration of the archers is impressive, among shouts from all sides trying to disconcert them. Some of the archers have gone on to the Olympic tryouts and National competitions. The Sagra, also a time to eat local specialties and drink the various forms of the great wines, both the Rosso and Brunello, and the Moscadello, for which Montalcino has been famous throughout the centuries.

Montalcino includes five other smaller towns, the 'Frazioni', which each have their charm and breathtaking views. Sant'Angelo in Colle known for its two excellent restaurants, Torrenieri, which used to be known for its difficult turns and twists and the bike and motor competitions, and the biggest of the five, Sant'Angelo Scalo, also known for its simple restaurants which have surprising and excellent food, Camilliano, tiny and sweet, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where the quietly qnd utterly amazing Sant'Antimo Abbey lies nestled among the vineyards and ancient olive trees. At one time one of the most famous Abbeys of Tuscany, it was built by Carlomagno,in gratitude for having been spared the Pesta, the Great Plague of his times. The Cistercian Monks sing all of the several services in Gregorian chant. The history of this place started well before Christian times. A sacred site to the Etruscans and before, a place where there is a sacred Source, each generation has reverberated to the mystical and potent peace that the place emanates. It is not to be missed.

Things to do

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Montalcino is 1 hr 23 min (74.0 km) west of Sant’ArcAngelo via SP146

San Quirico d’Orcia

San Quirico is wonderful little town. There is not much to do here but a lovely half day can be spent exploring the town walls, the ancient churches and taking in the stunning views. It is very close to major road routes so can be visited in conjunction to trips to Florence, Sienna, Montepulciano, Montelcino, Monteriggioni, Arezzo, Cortona, etc. Cars have to be parked just outside the city walls in a small but safe public car park which is a five minute walk from the town walls.

The Val D’Orcia which gives San Quirico D’Orcia its name is often described as ‘The Tuscany of Your Dreams’. The beautiful and untouched landscape is unmissable boasting of endless rolling hills covered with grain or sunflowers, a rich green valley which encompasses the Orcia river, from which the zone derives its name, and don’t forget the vineyards for the renowned wines of Brunello and the newcomer on the market, the Val d’Orcia DOC. It is no wonder that this territory, which stretches along the provinces of Siena and Grosseto, is protected as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Time seems to slow down for picturesque towns like Pienza, a real jewel known as the "Ideal City" and the beautiful Palazzo Piccolomini. Or the little town of Castiglion d'Orcia with its fortress. At the furthest southernmost point there is the hilltop town of Radicofani with its imposing castle tower or go west, towards the walled medieval city of Montalcino and the vineyards of Brunello. A must-see is the beautiful and suggestive Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo, one of the best examples of medieval monastic architecture.

After a day visiting museums, ancient abbeys and castles, you can relax yourself in one of the many thermal baths of the region, such as the ones in Bagno Vignoni or in Bagni di San Filippo.

This region is very rich in high quality local products such as the "pecorino" cheese of Pienza (a typical cheese made with sheep's milk), the genuine olive oil, the gorgeous wine resulting from a long and ancient tradition, saffron, mushrooms, chestnuts, truffles, game and a lot of other specialties.

A vacation in Valdorcia is a special journey between sweet tastes and marvelous panoramas that you will never forget. The most beautiful photos you see of Tuscany come from this paradise!

If you eat in San Quirico we recommend La Jardine restaurant attached to the Hotel Palazzo del Capitano Exclusive Wellness & Relais where the partially-covered outdoor dining restaurant caters for your every need in terms of Tuscan cuisine. We ate there four times and every time was superb (not inexpensive however).

Things to do

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San Quirico d’Orcia is 1 hr 9 min (60.5 km) west of Sant’ArcAngelo via SP146

Monte Amiata

Monte Amiata is 1 hr 33 min (77.9 km) south west of Sant’ArcAngelo via SP40

Montepulciano

Things to do

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Piazza Grande – a pleasant piazza surrounded by great architecture, like the medieval Palazzo Comunale, Contucci Palace, & Palazzo de' Nobili-Tarugi.

The clock tower of the Palazzo Comunale can be climbed for a great town view (€1.60 open daily 10:00-6:00).

Wine tasting can be done in the Cantinas along Via Ricci & Via di Gracciano nel Corso, but the most fun one is in the basement of the Contucci Palace, on Piazza Grande. Free tasting, no food, open daily 8:30-12:30 & 2:30-6:30. Groups welcome with a reservation. Telephone: 0578-757-006.

Civic Museum - this small museum's highlight is the della Robbia ceramic altarpieces and Etruscan artifacts (€4.10, open Tuesday to Saturday 10:00-1:00 and 3:00-6:00, Sunday 10:00-6:00, closed Monday, on Via Ricci. Telephone: 0578-717-300
San Biagio Church - a wonderful Renaissance church with soaring nave & dome, with a challenging walk from the church to the town center. Open daily 9:00-1:00 & 3:00-7:00

Montepulciano is 44 min (36.6 km) west of Sant’ArcAngelo via SR454

If you decide to have a meal in Montepulciano, here are some recommendations:

Lunch at Le Logge del Vignola was possibly the best meal we had on our 9 day of Italy. We selected the tasting menu and this was the perfect choice and were seated on the upper level in the window bay so we could look out at the passers-by as we enjoyed the best 90 minute culinary experience in a very long time. Not only did the meal include complementary appetizers and delicious home-made bread, but at the end of the meal included a selection of desserts that we had to take home with us as we were just too full. Honestly it was way too much for us for lunch but it just meant we didn’t need to have dinner that day. The service was astoundingly good (just the right amount of attention without being obsequious) and the food and drink combinations were perfect. We were served with multiple dishes not all of which we can remember (and the website has altered the tasting menu since we attended) but the ones that really stuck our memories were the duck with plum(?) sauce, a pasta dish where the pasta was flavoured with chocolate and served with flower petals, and the most exquisite desert with biscotti. And the homemade cookies at the end came on top of all this.

Ristorante La Grotta has a fabulous location (the website photos do not do it justice) with an outside dining area overlooking the Abbe di Sant Biagio outside of the Montepulciano town walls. I would estimate that it’s about a half mile walk from the Piazza Grande where our hotel was located and it was a very pleasant stroll to get to the restaurant (we decided to walk due to the proximity and the ability to have a few glasses of wine) but the walk back was lass fun as the road is especially steep in places :-) Our dinner was outstanding from the selection of delicious homemade breads to accompany the meal, through the complementary appetizer, the starters (a cheese flan on a bed of tomato and drizzled basil pesto, and freshly shaved truffles), the perfectly-cooked lamb, a wonderful cheese board with honey and marmalade, and finally a delicious dessert with powdered chocolate. The wine was exceptional (vino nobile di montepulciano, of course) and the service faultless. We have no hesitation in recommending this restaurant for both the location and the food.

Sarteano

Sarteano is famous for the annual mediaeval jousting competition - the ‘Giostra del Saraceno’ or ‘Palio Sarteano’. We spent an excellent afternoon marveling at the professional ‘taunters’ that each clan had and who were provided with megaphones to try and put off the opposition as the various challenges got under way – drumming, flag-juggling, and the piece de resistance - the jousting on horseback (which turned out to be more about skill with a lance on horseback rather than two knight fighting it out together).

Things to do

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Sarteano is 40 min (33.0 km) south of Sant’ArcAngelo via SR71

Civita di Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio is a fascinating hill town perched on top of a pinnacle of rock which is gradually deteriorating over time i.e. the rock is crumbling away into the valley below. Since the land bridge that connected the town to the larger neighbouring town collapsed many years ago, a man-made bridge has been constructed across the valley to replace it for the local residents. It takes your breath away looking over the edge of the steel-cable bridge as you walk across to the gate at the main town entrance. We had a superb morning in the town and got some great photos. It’s just sad to think that every year a few more people leave and a bit more of the pinnacle on which the town resides falls away into the valleys on each side.

Things to do

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Romanesque Arch at the entrance to Civita, this arch was cut by the Etruscans 2,500 years ago.

Renaissance Palace façade is all that remains of an old palace, the rest having collapsed into the canyon from erosion of the hill Civita sits on.

Piazza - the town's only public phone is at the piazza, the site of donkey races on the first Sunday in June and the second Sunday of September. The columns are Etruscan. In the evening, the piazza is the place to be, as what's left of the town socializes there.

Church on the piazza - this church is on the site of an Etruscan temple, and after that a Roman temple. It has a fine campanile (bell tower), altar, and crucifix.

Etruscan Caves - a series of caves at the east end of town, one of which was made into a chapel, called the Chapel of the Incarcerated.

Civita di Bagnoregio is 1 hr 26 min (85.3 km) south of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35

Orvieto

Orvieto contains quite possibly the most ornate cathedral I have ever seen. The walled city in general is also lovely to walk around. If you are planning to see all the sights in Orvieto it is worth buying the ‘Carta Unico Orvieto’ which allows you to get in to all the sights (including Duomo, the Underground Tour and all the museums) for 20 Euros (Reduced price 17 Euros for students and over 65s). It also gives you a free return journey on the funicular and bus. If you are not planning to visit all the museums it is not worth it since the sights don't cost a lot and normally have discount if you have visited other sights. Tourist information is available from the tourist office at the Piazza del Duomo (M-F 8:15-1:50, 4-7. Sat 10-1, 4-7. Sun and holidays 10-12, 4-6).

Things to do

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The wonderful Duomo of Orvieto is the main 'must-see' sight in this town. Constructed in the 13th and 14th centuries, the black and white striped building in mixed Romanesque and Gothic styles, is one of the world's greatest cathedrals. The setting, on the Orvieto hill and visible from miles away in the Umbrian countryside is fabulous. But, impressive as the cathedral is, the piece-de-resistance is inside, the frescoes of Luca Signorelli on the theme of the Last Judgment inside the Capella di San Brizio.

Pozzo di San Patrizio
Pozzo della Cava
Medieval Quarter
Palazzo Buzi
San Giacomo Maggiore
Madonna della Cava
Musei Archeologici Claudio Faina e Civico
Museo dell'Opera del Duomo and Museo Emilio Greco
Museo Archeologico
Underground Orvieto
Piazza del Popolo and Cosrso Cavour
Palazzo del Popolo
Museo delle Ceramiche Medioevale
San Giovanni
San Giovenale
Sant'Agostino
Sant'Andrea
Porta Maggiore
San Lorenzo de Arari
San Francesco
The citadel
Tempio del Belvedere (Etruscan temple)

Orvieto is 1 hr 12 min (70.1 km) south of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35

Spoleto

Things to do

The Duomo.

The Roman ruins and Archeological Museum.

The first century Roman Villa.
Ponte delle Torre - old aqueduct and footpath behind the fort at the top of the city.

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Spoleto is 1 hr 11 min (90.1 km) south east of Sant’ArcAngelo via SS75 and SS3

Trevi

Trevi was actually disappointing to us appearing to be a dying town that most people had already moved away from. The cathedral is difficult to photograph except from a distance but it’s fine for walking around and enjoying the squares and the narrow streets. Go into San Francesco church to admire (and if you can to hear) the wall pump organ that claims to be the world's oldest. It has been thoroughly restored quite recently.

When we left Trevi we found the Roman lake and temple at Clitunno which we discovered by accident after finding it mentioned on a map and deciding to investigate on a whim as it was close by. We spent a very nice our here visiting and taking photographs.

Things to do

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Trevi is 1 hr 3 min (74.0 km) south east of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Autostradale 6 Bettolle-Perugia/Raccordo Autostradale A1 Perugia and SS75

Spello

For many visitors Spello is a highlight of any tour of the towns of Umbria. Spello is a beautiful little town where everyone seems to take delight in decorating their homes with an abundance of potted plants and flowers. It was here that we made friends with a man and his son who are looking to start importing wine to the US. He gave me a glass of the finest red wine I have ever tasted - Tili 2004 Reserva from Assisi. We watched the sun go down over the sunflower fields outside of Spello from the balcony of a wonderful restaurant called Porta Venere. It was truly a special end to a wonderful day.

Things to do

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Sights from more than three millennia can be found in Spello. There is a Roman amphitheater outside of town, but it was never fully excavated and is not usually open to the public. It can be seen from the belvedere lookout in the historic center.
Spello has some of Italy's best preserved city walls, many of them Roman, some medieval. They can be seen from the superstrada and from various angles around town. Three large Roman gates remain: the main Porta Consulare, Porta Urbica and the Torre di Properzio Gate.
Numerous medieval churches near and in Spello are worth visiting. Of particular interest are S. Claudio (1 km outside), S. Ventura (at the bottom of the hill), S. Maria Maggiore (ex-cathedral, when Spello was still a bishop's seat - half way up the hill, before the main square), S. Andrea (50 meters past S. Maria M.), S. Lorenzo (past the main square) and Chiesa di Vallegloria (on top of the hill).
The Pinacoteca Civica art museum (between S. Maria M. and S. Andrea churches) houses many precious artefacts from various Spello churches and palazzi.
The medieval palazzo comunale (city hall -on the main square) is also worth a visit: the various building parts are very beautiful and they house a number or Roman and medieval artifacts (e.g., an original stone edict by emperor Constantin). Sometimes, art exhibits are held in some of the larger halls.
In the upper part of town (on Via Giulia, between S. Lorenzo and Vallegloria churches), there are two important sights: the remnants of a large former Roman arch (to the left of the bakery) and (30 meters on) a splendid little 200-year old theatre, which has shows throughout the year and is sometimes open during the day for visitors.
Outside Spello, near S. Claudio church, is the beautifully located castle/palace Villa Fidelia, where outdoor concerts are held in the summer. Some of the buildings are used as art museums and the castle gardens can be visited.
At the bottom of the hill, near S. Anna church, the floor of a Roman villa with unusually beautiful and well-preserved mosaics was discovered some years ago. It is now open to the public.
Spello's most famous artworks are to be found in S. Maria Maggiore and S. Andrea churches: two of the Renaissance's best-known painters have left behind a number of paintings and frescoes of major interest. In S. Maria Maggiore, Il Pinturicchio painted the Baglioni chapel in 1500- the frescoes are extremely well preserved. The same church houses two paintings by Il Perugino. S. Andrea has one large Pinturicchio painting.
Towards the top of the hill, past Vallegloria church, up Via Cappuccini, a complete Roman arch is remaining. 20 m past the arch, the belvedere lookout) offers a splendid view of Assisi and (if the weather permits) Perugia.
Spello's main point of interest is the town itself: its hundreds of steep medieval streets and stairways, arches and angles, nestled into a pristine Umbrian countryside, are second to no none in their beauty.
If you leave Spello during one of its upper gates (from Vallegloria) you can reach numerous walk ways through the local olive groves, which offer nice views of the town and the valley. Driving further up the Subasio Mountain (on whose slopes Spello is built) you reach the village of Collepino (which is part of Spello) - a very romantic little medieval hamlet. Past Collepino you enter the Subasio Regional Park (on foot or by car), which offers hiking paths, beautiful nature, splendid views, and an alternative way to Assisi.

Spello is 47 min (57.2 km) east of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Autostradale 6 Bettolle-Perugia/Raccordo Autostradale A1 Perugia and SS75

Assisi

Assisi is mostly made up of medieval houses and shops. Most of the cobblestone streets and alleys will take you to the basilica of St. Francis. Please be quiet as you visit this multi-level structure as it still is a place of prayer for many. It's a good idea to rent the audio guide to appreciate the artistic and historical significance of this unique church. The walls and ceilings of the upper church are embellished with frescoes of the Giotto school; the lower sanctuary contains the tomb of St. Francis.

It is definitely worth the climb to the castle on the hilltop overlooking the town.

Things to do

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There are many things to see and experience in Assisi and if you are only able to undertake a short visit these are the recommended sites:

Starting at Piazza Matteotti cross the street and go down towards San Rufino Cathedral, that has probably the most beautiful façade of all the churches in town. If you have some time to spare visit the museum.

Following Via San Rufino (walking down in front of the Cathedral) you arrive to Piazza del Comune, the center of the town. There is a small fountain known as the “lions fountain". There are two main attractions on the Piazza: the "Palazzo del Capitano del Popolo" with the clock tower and the beautiful church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (St. Mary over Minerva), with its impressive roman columns. Assisi, being an old roman town, had its own temple dedicated to Minerva, the goddess of wisdom. With the arrival of Christianity the temple was transformed into a Catholic Church and the Virgin Mary was promoted above pagan wisdom. The church was completely remodeled in the early 1990's and stands in stark contrast to the exterior. In Piazza del Comune you find also the Tourist Information Center.

From the "Lions Fountain" find the street called "Corso Mazzini". Here you will find many interesting shops of all sorts. At the end of the street you'll find and archway and after that you will see the lovely St. Claire's Basilica, where the original crucifix, that spoke to Saint Francis, is found. There is a lovely piazza in front of the Church, with wonderful views of the valley. Morning and Evening prayer is beautiful here, with the choir of cloistered Poor Clare nuns singing.

Re-tracing your steps you can go back to Piazza del Comune, passing on your left a little street that takes you to "Chiesa Nuova", a very spiritual little church built over to what is said to be Francis' original home.

From Piazza del Comune you have two options to reach Saint Francis' Basilica:

a) the street to your right is "Via San Paolo", and it will eventually lead you to the Basilica. This is a slightly longer way to get there and not so crowded, sometimes there is no one around, even on busy days! After you walk a little on Via San Paolo turn to your left when you see some steps and a fresco on the wall, follow the steps down until you get to the small church of St. Stephen (Santo Stefano). This is a real jewel, not known to many and skipped by the majority of "running pilgrims". Even if for 5 minutes it is a must see.

b) the street to your left from Piazza del Comune is called "Via Portica". This is the usual and shorter way to go to the Basilica of Saint Francis. There are plenty of shops. On your left you will eventually find the Metastasio theater, with a continual exhibit about St. Clare. After a short while you pass an archway and arrive to "Via San Francesco". A little walk and to your left you will see a little chapel called the "Oratorio dei Pellegrini" (the Pilgrim's Chapel). It only opens for a few hours during the day when it is open there is almost always Eucharistic adoration. Inside this room you will find some of the most beautiful frescos of the town. In this same street to your right you can find some very interesting museums.

At the end of the street you will find the Basilica of St. Francis, with everything to discover. Start at the upper Basilica. Make sure you make it to the lower church and down the stairs to the Tomb of Saint Francis. This is one of the most spiritually powerful places in Assisi.

When you finish your visit of the Basilica you will exit on the lower part, in front of Piazza San Francesco. Walk down the Piazza, cross the archway and walk down Via Frante Elia. When you arrive to the bottom of the street to your left you will see a big Church, San Pietro. This is another "must see" of the city that is many times ignored. Differently to other churches in town, the interior is more beautiful than the exterior.

Assisi is 50 min (52.2 km) east of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Autostradale 6 Bettolle-Perugia/Raccordo Autostradale A1 Perugia

Gubbio

Gubbio is an Umbrian jewel and is where we saw the bronze tablets inside the Pallazo dei Console that are the Italian equivalent of the Rosetta stone. If possible you should visit during the Festa dei Ceri and Corsa dei Ceri, one of the most exciting events in Umbria and possibly in Italy. On the 15th May of each year all the city of Gubbio participates in this feast, young and old gathered in the main square, dressed in the colours of their "ceraioli" - yellow for Saint Ubaldo's candle, blue for Saint Giorgio's candle, and black for Saint Antonio's candle. The streets of the city will be also full of flags and banners with the symbols of the saints. It is a unique spectacle and the actual race (you should look this up) has not even started yet! The last time we visited we took the corsoto funicular up the mountainside to the Basilica di Sant Ubaldo to see the tomb of Saint Ubaldo. The corsoto funicular is kind of a ski lift but the things you stand in to go up the mountainside are shaped like a bird cage, are about three feet across (just enough space to hold two adults in discomfort) and made of wrought iron. And we took this thing in a thunderstorm! It was certainly an experience especially when we got to the top, did not understand the operative’s instructions and were consequently dragged bodily out of our carriage as the lightening crashed around us.

Things to do

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Palazzo dei Consoli. Built in 1332‑1337, this is an impressive public building. It required tremendous engineering work to create a large enough flat space on the side of a hill in order to construct the Palace, which together with the Piazza della Signoria in front of it, was erected on a massive arched structure.
The Festa dei ceri is a fantastic representation organized every year on 15th May. It consists of a crazy race of three big wooden candles, each weighing around 300 Kg, in the narrow streets of the city. More information at: http://www.festadeiceri.it/
Basilica of St. Ubaldo, (Take the funivia). St. Ubaldo is the patron saint of Gubbio and his ashes are preserved in an urn on an altar in the church. The cloister is particularly attractive.
Palazzo Ducale. An ancient palace that was restructured in the 15th Century in Renaissance style. Many of the original furnishings ended up in the Metropolitan Museum of New York.
Cathedral. This is a Gothic 14th century church. The façade, which was restored in the 16th century, has a beautiful Gothic portal and is richly decorated. Inside there are ten arches that support the roof. Contains some interesting paintings.

Piazza 40 Martiri. The piazza commemorates 40 people of Gubbio shot by German forces in June 1944. A mausoleum has been erected in their honour. In the piazza is the church of St. Francis (S. Francesco), after St. Francis of Assisi who lived in Gubbio for a time.

Fountain of the Mad. Supposedly, if you run round it three times you will be driven insane – but only if you run in the wrong direction!
Roman Theatre. This well-preserved building hosts various cultural events in the summer months.
Museo Civico, in the Palazzo dei Consoli. 10.30-13.00 and 15.00-18.00. An archaeological museum and art gallery. Notable for the Iguvine Tablets, which were seven bronze tablets discovered in Gubbio in 1444. They are also known as the Eugubian tablets. The earliest ones were probably written in the 3rd century BC. The tablets are written in the Umbrian language and shed much light on the grammar of this ancient dead language.

Gubbio is 1 hr 5 min (79.9 km) north east of Sant’ArcAngelo via SS318

Cortona

Cortona is a small charming town in the Valdichiana, or Chiana Valley, in the province of Arezzo in southern Tuscany. The city, enclosed by stone walls dating back to Etruscan and Roman times, sits on the top of a hill about 600 meters (about 1968 feet) above sea level. This dominant position over the valley offers a spectacular view from all over the town of the surrounding valley and even Lake Trasimeno.

The city is small but offers many interesting places to visit, among these the Diocesan Museum (where you can admire a beautiful panel painting of the Annunciation by Beato Angelico) and the MAEC (The Etruscan Academy Museum of the City of Cortona), where it is possible to see many artifacts found in the Etruscan archeological sites in the area. You can also request additional information about the Archeological Park at the museum.

You should not miss a visit to the beautiful Santa Margherita Sanctuary, patron of the city, and to the Girifalco Fortress. Both are on the highest point on the hill and are easy to reach after a short, uphill walk. Following the path that follows the city walls, you can also enjoy a beautiful view over the surrounding countryside. The Girifalco Fortress, constructed for military purposes, has undergone many substantial changes throughout the centuries and today only a part is open to the public.

Various small shops on the main streets of Cortona offer local handmade items and gastronomical products. Great red wines are made in the area (we are just a few kilometers from Montepulciano and Montalcino) and all of the wine bars offer a wide selection.

There are many restaurants in the city, most offering traditional local and Tuscan cuisine (the Chianina cattle, one of Italy's oldest, high quality bovine breeds is bred in Valdichiana).

Things to do

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Etruscan tombs
Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca
Via Janelli to see the medieval houses
The views from Fortezza Medicea.
Palazzo Comunale (Town hall), which was built in 13th century

Piazza della Repubblica: the most famous piazza in Cortona.
Piazza Signorelli: next to the Piazza della Repubblica and less crowded. During Sundays it has a flea market where they sell antiques. The Teatro dell Signorelli is also here.
Piazza Garibaldi: built by the French during the Napoleonic wars

The Cathedral (Il Duomo): Summer daily 7:30am-1pm and 3:30-6:30pm. Winter daily 8am-12:30pm and 3-5:30pm. Free admission.
Church of Santa Maria Nuova.

If you decide to eat in the area we recommend Relais Il Falconiere where you can arrange tours of the wine cellar, escorted by the owner who might insist that you join him and his family and friends for several glasses of the wine that his family has produced on the site for generations, before having dinner in the restaurant Il Falconiere. This was a very special experience, dining al fresco and watching the sun set as we ate the wonderful Tuscan meal.

Cortona is 41 min (32.5 km) north of Sant’ArcAngelo via SR71

Arezzo

Things to do

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Piazza Grande, the most beautiful square in Arezzo, is surrounded by marvelous old buildings and hosts the Giostra del Saracino twice a year.

Arezzo Cathedral (Duomo), Piazza del Duomo. Daily 7AM-12:30PM and 3-6:30PM.

Church of San Francesco, Piazza San Francesco, Tel. +39-0575-20630.

Church of Santa Maria della Pieve, Corso Italia 7, Tel. +39-0575-22629.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, via S. Maria delle Grazie 1.
Medici fortress

Arezzo is 1 h 8 min (79.0 km) north of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35

La Verna

La Verna is 1 h 49 min (113.8 km) north of Sant’ArcAngelo via SS3bis

The Cinque Terre - Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, Riomaggiori

Further afield and requiring at least an overnight stay or two is the unique Cinque Terre.

Monterosso al Mare

Vernazza

Corniglia

Manarola

The Cinque Terre area

Riomaggiori

The Cinque Terre (the Five Towns) is a string of centuries-old seaside villages on the rugged Italian Riviera coastline. In each of the five towns, colorful houses and vineyards cling to steep terraces, harbors are filled with fishing boats and trattorias turn out seafood specialties along with the Liguria region’s famous sauce, pesto. The Sentiero Azzurro cliffside hiking trail links the villages and offers sweeping sea vistas.

The Cinque Terre boasts some of the best coastline hiking trails in the world. Since Cinque Terre is an area prone to landslides, it's always better to check if the hiking paths are open or closed, before leaving. You must purchase a pass if you hike the trail number 2 (blue), while no pass is required for the other trails. It is also possible to purchase a hiking and train pass in one if you wish to catch a train to the next town. Trains are frequent but it is advisable to check local time tables especially on Sunday and Public holidays as you could be waiting up to an hour for the correct train.

The trail closest to the water is marked as No. 2. The path from Riomaggiore to Manarola is called the Via Dell'Amore (or roughly "Street of Lovers"). This is a paved path that is easy to walk for any age. This trail has been closed since rock slide injured several tourists in 2012. Only the side starting from Manarola is open for a short distance and is wheelchair accessible. The Riomaggiore side is closed at the beginning. Along the way, passers-by have the opportunity to write their names on the walls of a gallery. Visitors should not scratch their names on trees or cactuses as this is damaging to the plants. Mid-way down the path, you will come across 'The Lover's Lock' which is a place to seal your eternal love. This custom follows the Italian fad that was started by the film Tre Metri Sopra il Cielo. At this point there is a 'love seat' in the shape of a male and female locked in a kiss, where many couples pose. An alternate trail that is very steep with large uneven rock stairs climbs over the cliffs and connects Riomaggiore to Manarola.

There are two hiking paths from Manarola to Corniglia. The first one is closest to the water and easy. It takes approximately 30 minutes. The path is not paved. To reach Corniglia town center there is an uphill hike and a large zig zag shaped staircase with 385 steps which can be quite a mission in the midday sun. In 2010-2011 there was a big landslide on this path so the park closed it for several months. Check with park offices if the trail is open. The second hiking path is through the mountains. If you reach Cinqueterre through Manarola, you can take a bus in the early morning to Corniglia and then do the other hiking paths on foot.

The trail from Corniglia to Vernazza is longer and the terrain is uneven. The hike takes approximately 2 hours.

The trail from Vernazza to Monterosso is the steepest (you need a reasonably good level of fitness - there is over 250m of climbing over very uneven rocks, totaling approx. 750 'steps' - not easy for most people), winding through olive orchards and vineyards and offering dramatic ocean views. The paths are narrow, with a very real danger of falling 12 to 15 feet if you lose your footing. If you attempt this hike, take some water, and be prepared to build up a very decent sweat.

The walk on the No. 2 trail between all the villages takes the better part of a day. For those that would rather not walk (or not walk the entire trail), a boat ferry service runs seasonally to all five villages, plus Lerici. The price is reasonable, and gives a nice view of the villages from the water. The regional train that connect all the villages is also a quick way to hop among towns.

If you are a more experienced hiker, take advantage of other trails that go higher up the mountain. These trails are well maintained, off the beaten path, and usually have fewer tourists. You can obtain detailed maps from any of the park offices. The paths number 7, 7/a and 6/d are particularly scenic and passing through nice vineyards and terraces.

In June, July, August, it is advised that you attempt the walk as early as possible to avoid the unforgiving midday sun. Sneakers or suitable walking shoes are essential.

Things to do

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Location

La Spezia is 3 h 13 min (283.1 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via A1/E35

Hints and tips for walking the Cinque Terre.

We did a significant amount of research to ensure our exploration of the Cinque Terra was successful. As a result of this we parked our hire car at La Spezia train station parking having first obtained an advance ticket using the mobpark.eu website. From there we were able to take the train to Riomaggiore having first obtained the "Cinque Terre Card Train MS" from the Reception Centre of the National Park of the Cinque Terre at Piazza Rio Finale, 26, (Riomaggiore Railway Station ground floor), 19017 Riomaggiore and remembered to obtain enough cash from the Station ATM.

We decided to take the north-south coastal route through the Cinque Terre as we wanted to end up back at Riomaggiore where our hotel was located and also wanted to get the most difficult sections of the route out of the way during the early part of the day while we were freshest. It turned out this was a really good decision and I would recommend this route rather than starting in Riomaggiore and ending at Monterosso. At 9:00am we took the train from Riomaggiore to Monterosso al Mare and began by exploring Monterosso al Mare starting with a visit to the Il Gigante statue of Neptune and the Dawn Tower (Torre Aurora). The rain was pretty bad at this point so instead of risking spending the entire day cold and wet we ducked into a restaurant on the coast and had breakfast. It turned out this was good idea as we were able to dry out and warm up and have some hot food and coffee to set us up for the trek to come. Monterosso is actually two very distinct towns, the new half furthest north where we started contains the hotels and is primarily based around beach activities, but the old half which we much preferred consists of tiny winding streets and shopping opportunities. We spent some time shopping for gifts while the rain eased off and then set off on the first part of our trek through the Cinque Terre. The walk from Monterosso al Mare to Vernazza was a little strenuous in places with some steep hikes and the total distance was 3.5 km which took us 1.5 hours. We spent some time exploring Vernazza and noted that our enjoyment of this town changed markedly depending on whether a cruise ship was in dock there. If it was then the ability to get to and enjoy the town’s main attraction, Castello Doria, and have a pleasant lunch will be severely impaired. After our visit to the Castello Doria we decided it was time for lunch and so stopped in at Ristorante Al Castello. After lunch we walked the coast road from Vernazza to Corniglia which again was not too challenging but did again contain some steep sections. The total distance is 4 km and again we covered this in about 1.5 hours. Corniglia is the only town not actually at sea level but it’s still nice and worth a visit. Next we walked from Corniglia to Manarola, a mostly-downhill easy 3 km stroll that took about 1 hour. After exploring Manarola we attempted to complete our journey by walking the Via d’Amore to Riomaggiore which is an easy 1.5 km stroll along a paved path for 30 mins but this turned out to be the only disappointing part of the day. We knew in advance that there was a section of this route that was still closed due to a landslide several years ago. We decided to explore this and walked the route out of Manarola which very disappointingly started by going through what appeared to be a monstrous red brick water treatment area and then through what looked like a drug addict’s drop-out area. Seriously. As a result of this route having been closed for so long the route is completely overgrown with weeds and shrubs and the huts that line the route (that look like 1930’s seaside bathing changing rooms) are all dilapidated, covered in graffiti, trash, and broken bottles and cans. There was evidence that fires had been lit there and it was clearly an area that is now used by n’er-do-wells (I would avoid it after dark until the clean-up has been completed) and is going to need significant clean up and renovation when the landslide is fully cleared up. On that subject we walked all the way to the landslide itself and confirmed that it is indeed impassable without mountaineering equipment. So slightly disappointed we backtracked to Manarola and took the train to Riomaggiore to investigate what happens if you had started the trek there and walked south-north. Unfortunately right at the start of the Via d’Amore there is a large locked Perspex door and gate that prevents you going any further so again we backtracked and finished the day with a nice meal in Riomaggiore. I hope this review is useful to people attempting the Cinque Terre coastal path hike.

The towns of the Chianti region

Strada in Chianti

Greve in Chiati

Radda in Chianti

Gaiole in Chianti

Rada in Chianti is 1 hr 47 min (113.4 km) north west of Sant’ArcAngelo via Raccordo Siena-Bettolle

GUESTBOOK

TESTIMONIALS

S&J G-T, Texas

“Thank you for letting us stay at this beautiful place. The town, people and accommodations were amazing. We loved watching the sunsets and taking in all of the views. This is a perfect location to explore many different parts of Italy. We had an exceptional time while we were here and enjoyed all aspects of our vacation.”

M&P G, Buda, TX

"Thank you for an unforgettable experience!! Thank you for sharing your unique vacation home with us. The castle and the surrounding views are beautiful and the history is “mind-blowing”. We can’t thank you enough for sharing your gem with us. Thank you for your hospitality, organization and quick responses to our questions. You are an amazing team.”

M&C Round Rock, TX

“What a unique and fun experience! Such a good location. Saw Assisi and Perugia – but mostly the spectacular Tuscany scenery!! And its abundance of hilltop villages. Thanks for your part in our vacation.”

Paul&Pam, Tuscon, AZ

"Thank you for helping us celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary. Minas Annun is a magical place. OMG if I had a fairy book dream castle my dreams came true here. The location is perfect for making day trips. Appreciate all your detailed help, guidance and suggestions. Looking forward to returning one day."

GUEST BOOK

The attached Minas Annûn Guest Book contains some of the same information as this website. It also supplements it and adds many useful graphics and photographs. The intent is to provide a 'one stop shop' containing all the information you could ever need to ensure the best possible vacation at Minas Annûn, an apartment in a fairytale castle in the Badia di Sant'Arcangelo in the heart of Tuscany/Umbria.

Following is a link to a Google Earth map of the location of the castle: Location

The annual weather forecast for the area in which the castle is located can be found here: Weather

Dates when the castle apartment is available for rent can be viewed here:

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